Harvested on Gaoshan (literally ‘high mountain’) a little southeast?of the celebrated village of Tongmuguan, the profile seems to mirror the provenance, with a thin, mineral body recalling pristine spring water and the surprising acidity and slight bitterness of lime. It is still a black tea, however, and grounded in a sweet maltiness that keeps the infusion rounded and balanced. It is clearly not only a high-altitude but also a high-class example of the type. Reserve for afternoon tea with distinguished guests accordingly.

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