Bai Mudan Wang 2020

A whiff of these still-green leaves, and you may think you’ve stepped into your favorite patisserie, air perfumed by the scent of whatever has last come out of the oven. Bai Mudan?may?sometimes seem like a compromise between the pure buds of floral Yin Zhen and the larger leaves of fruitier Shou Mei, but this superior grade, aged for only a couple years, really shows the type coming into its own. The liquor is particularly starchy, but favors the subtle yeastiness of brioche and flaky pastry above the usual note of straw, enlivened by lavender or wildflower honey and the heavy fruit of blackberry in the finish. We’re very interested to see how it ages, given that its rarified character is already fit for a king.