It’s truly fantastic to see (taste) how freshly-gathered leaves, prudently sequestered from the elements, can transform from bright and almost painfully fresh in character to something so deep, aromatic, and sweet. This Shou Mei demonstrates just that, exuding a full, honeyed aroma from the dark, fuzzy leaves and producing a liquor with the flavor of dense fruitcake or panaforte and light, crispy spa wafers. It manages to hit that rare middle of being both grounding and enlivening, and will pair well with tea snacks both sweet and savory.

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