Though the province of Fujian is the most well-known for its white teas, Yunnan offers its own delicate take as well with a hardy cultivar of the region’s large assamica leaves. Rather than airy florality, this version takes a page from fellow Yunnan white tea Yue Guang Bai: the mellow, starchy woodiness of liquorice root and acacia honey sweetness roll over the tongue with a velvety mouthfeel, completed by gentle aromas of vanilla and marshmallow for an utterly relaxing infusion. Yet there is something more, and our slender buds surprise with a swelling, distinct citrus side, as a lemony tingle is followed by kumquat, followed by a perfect facsimile of bitter orange. For once, you can effectively have your marmalade in your tea rather than on your crumpets.

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